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Just slide a normal sized ruler behind the feeder motor and it wont fall out, i find it to be an almost perfect fit, you may need to bend it a little just to make it flush when you are putting it back but it nothing to be afraid of and wont affect your prints.

Ive taken mine off loads. Its the first thing i did. I personally have no issues. There is just one spring inside and a white thing and if you are careful nothing will fly out and there are loads. Id just give it a good blow with an air duster unles you are sure something is stuck. Id take it off just to get used to not being afraid of taking if off as otherwise its something to fear.

Dont worry its not delicate and there is zero chance of you damaging anything in there even if you do it when your drunk! You will need to take stuff apart eventually and to maintain it so wht not start with one of the easiest and safest parts to remove? After all, youre gonna do it any ways. It is an issue and it is well documented. I had my machine for 2 years and it was documented then. I hear the new feeder is much better, I found to help with this problem is to increase the heat carefully and slower your print.

If you're going to do it right away then I really wouldn't put the old feeder back: while some may struggle along with it, there are better designs which mean you don't have to struggle.

The one I use is this variant on Robert's design I like this because it ensures that the filament is straightened out before it enters the feeder.

I also add a clamshell type sponge holder that wraps around the filament and cleans off any dust from the filament and optionally lubricates before entry into the feeder. You need to be a member in order to leave a comment. Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy! Already have an account? Sign in here. SandervG posted a topic in Official news , April SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Feeding Problems.

Share More sharing options Followers 3. Recommended Posts. TheGiffMan55 0 Posted September 5, Hi all, So recently I've been having some material feeder problems and I have managed to determine that nothing is wrong involving the nozzle that I know of. Apologies if this problem is blatant, still new to 3d printing. Thanks for your time. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options Here are my recommended top speeds for.

Also check your temp sensor because they can easily be off by 10 to 30C:. Try testing the temperature next using my video as a guide. It will save you weeks of pain 10b Something wedged in with the filament. For others if they have the same problem, how did you fix it?

I took the filament out and found this: I followed web advice and detached the bowden tube ends to check for blockages. Edited March 20, by Guest. Oh yeah, just make sure you dont put it on backwards then everything happens in reverse, lol! You can I believe buy only the bondtech gears with the splined feeder part and design your own feeder around that.

The UM3 feeder works quite well though in my experience. The plan now is to shred it all and make thicker filament on the Filastruder. I will be sure to post information for you here as well as on the Filastruder forums. I have probably 8kg of unusable filament now, be it 1. I also have 5 kg of virgin PLA to mix in.

I know that PLA isn't friendly for heat recycling, so I had a crazy idea. I bought some methylene chloride and alizarin dye. The proposed primary degradation pathway for PLA during repeated extrusions is free radical damage. One method to stabilize these radicals is to add a quinone-based additive, which preferentially absorbs the free radicals before they can cause damage to the polymer.

My plan is to make some masterbatch from the virgin PLA with a crazy high loading of alizarin, which is a quinone also cheap and accessible to the public. My hypothesis is that I will end up with way more orange-red polymer than I know what to do with, but the material will be stable enough for recycling.

If that works, I will publish it on this forum, the Filastruder forum, and an appropriate academic journal. Curious to know how your printer is working, and if you have any updates on your recycling project.

I had the same issue, and noticed the same wear marks on the tension lever, and also the top of the feeder housing before the filament goes into the bowden tube. I finally contacted the NA support, fortunately the printer was under warranty, and replaced the feeder. No problems now! Thanks to the folks at the NA customer support for helping me get my printer running super quickly.

I have not forgotten about this thread, and I had no intention of leaving without reporting a final solution. However, it started acting up again with the same underextrusion patterns on my latest print. Sadly, this error came up on the same week as my back went out and I was driving my cat around to different emergency vets, so it got pushed to the back-burner.

I have not taken apart the extruder yet to check for damage to the lever, but I will do that as soon as possible. As promised,here is an update. I'm tagging the folks that have been helpful and seem to be running some support shops: gr5 fbrc8-erin kmanstudios. I ran this off and on for about two weeks without issue. I produced 3 moderately sized statues during this time using PLA and Breakaway filament in the extruders. I did this for more than just a desire to collect a pantheon of archaic gods, but because these were designs with complex surfaces and required a lot of material switching aka lots of retractions.

These were all successful. I had one hiccup with a failed print that made my heart skip, but that was just a simple filament tangle. No big deal. I was telling any friends and family that feigned concern for my printer woes that the issue was fixed.

And so I believed it was, until recently. I printed a very simple design with few, if any retractions, for my filawinder build. This print failed with the mesh-like underextrusion I have grown to loathe with a passion. So there is a still a problem. Naturally, since the lever was recently replaced, I looked to it first as the source of problems.

And as I suspected, the lever did have a problem. The two halves of the lever which are held in place by a friction lock as designed by the manufacturer, had partially separated. You can see in the image that the axis holding the bearing in place has separated, making it such that the bearing is not aligned. I corrected this issue by pressing the halves back together, but something about the tactile feedback in my fingers after I had pressed it together suggested that it is not permanently affixed.

I believe it will happen again. I doubt this was a spontaneous split. I believe that the torsion of the filament in the feeder is applying a force to the bearing or plastic slot such that the part splits. I will be continuing to print to see if this continues to occur. Until more information is brought to our attention on this, let's do a little speculation. What is causing this to occur? Is there something wrong with the alignment in my machine which could cause this?

Is there a fundamental issue with the design? We know that I am not the only one to have lever problems, as the Ultimaker Support guys shared a picture which had the grooved lever like mine was. Are there more users such as dmboston who are having the same failed part? What can we do to remedy this as users? Do we need to switch over to a different material in the lever construction to solve this?

I mean, a lever machined from Al sounds awesome, albeit expensive. I should note that I have made the following modifications to my printer since the last time I posted here:. So, out of curiosity, how do you load your filament? Do you pull up on the lever and pass material in, then use the motor power to get it to the head? Or do you use the motor power to feed it in from the start using the "load" option in material settings? I agree, an Al lever seems like it might be better, but I'd go with die-cast, much cheaper?

I have used both the auto load and cold load where I lift the lever and insert to the end before using the "move" function to put the filament in the correct spot. The cold load happens most often as a matter of convenience when the damaged filament can be pulled out from the Bowden tube, snipped, then reinserted easily. Which extruder are you having trouble with?

If it is the left side, the filament spool is not perfectly in line with the extruder. It might be an issue of the filament coming in at a weird angle. There was a suggestion earlier in this topic by gr5 that spools on the floor work best. Perhaps this is another solution. Limited access can complicate things, especially when there is that one person in the lab that does things in an odd manner there is always that guy. You are correct that I am the sole operator of this printer.

Die cast might be an option if we have enough people that express desire. If this is a thing, I have experience running group buys for mechanical keyboards, so I would not be above setting one up if the community becomes interested. The lever splitting like that definitely looks unusual; while I have seen the groove issue, I haven't seen one split like this.

The levers are press fit with specialized tools. It's always possible the tolerances was off on one of the plastic pieces; respond back on your ticket on the support system and we'll get another lever out on Monday. Check this fan.. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi Torgeir , that's a very promising lead! Thanks Stefan. If you can't find the problem this way, it might be easier for you this way: So here's a video made by fbrc8-erin if needed to open the extruder unit:. Glad it helped you. StefanF 2 Posted December 28, Create an account or sign in to comment You need to be a member in order to leave a comment Create an account Sign up for a new account in our community. Register a new account.

Sign in Already have an account? Sign In Now. Go to topic listing. It would mean a lot! Picked By SandervG , April New here?

Get ahead with a free onboarding course SandervG posted a topic in Official news , February 9, Hi, Often getting started is the most difficult part of any process.

A good start sets you up for success and saves you time and energy that could be spent elsewhere. They're ready for you on the Ultimaker Academy platform. All you need to do to gain access is to register your product to gain free access. Register your product here in just 60 seconds. Picked By SandervG , August 17, View All.